Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Posts Tagged ‘cooking’

An Offal Weekend

As I’ve written before, I’m a fan of eating odd bits. If you’re going to eat meat, and you want to be ethical about it, I think you should make the effort to try and eat all the parts of an animal (or use them in some manner).

 

I realize this concept is not for everyone. I am one of those people who used to cringe at the thought of eating non-traditional (at least in the current western world) pieces of meat.  The disconnect between animals and the plate has become so great that for some, the concept that meat comes from animals is so distant that they won’t eat meat with bones in it. People- meat comes from animals, animals have bones. But I digress…

 

My family raises cows, so I’m well aware of the importance of “hanging weight”- the weight of an animal’s carcass after it has been killed and eviscerated. If you buy an animal by the whole, half, or any other fraction, it’s likely that the cost is calculated based off of this number. This weight, however, does not include lots of other tasty (and incredibly nutritious) bits that an animal has to offer.

 

When I buy an animal from a farmer for butchering (or when I send my own animals to slaughter) I make sure I put in a request for lots of odd bits: I want the animal to be fully utilized, I want to get all the tasty bits, I want to get all the nutritious parts, and heck- I want to get my moneys worth!  As a result, I sometimes end with a substantial stash of offal in my freezer (especially beef offal, as not everyone who buys beef from us wants the odd bits, though that is changing as we sell more meat to paleo and foodie eaters).

 

When I came home to my parents this weekend, I thought I’d have a go at eating some of odd bits…  My photography is definitely not up to par with many food blogs, but hopefully I do these tasty bits justice (though it takes a better artist/photographer than me to make a raw beef tongue look anything other than kinda weird).

 

It all started on Friday night, when I decided it was time to experiment with some of the pork skin that I requested from the Berkshire pig I purchased this fall from a local farmer.  I found this page and gave their method a try. The result was tasty, though perhaps a danger to my teeth!

 

Cracklings

Cracklings!

 

This set in motion a bit of a personal challenge to see how much offal I could put to good use this weekend. Next on the block was a beautiful smoked jowl from the same Berkshire pig as above. Jowl is a really fatty piece of the animal that makes BEAUTIFUL (albeit very fatty) bacon. It can also be cured in other styles such as the Italian Guanciale (which reminds me, I have a piece of jowl from another pig in my freezer that a friend cured into Guanciale at home (<– Worth checking out, if only for the pic of a curing pork jowl hanging from the ceiling).  If you don’t request that the butcher save the jowl, I expect it ends up being ground into sausage- a shame for such a delicacy to end in anonymity.

 

Jowl1

A whole smoked pork jowl

 

I initially tried to slice this by hand, but quickly realized this was a job for my little deli-slicer.

 

Jowl_Cut

Jowl bacon, fresh cut

 

As its winter, I’ve been using quite a bit of stock out of my freezer for soups and stews. It seemed like this weekend was a good time replenish my stores by making some collagen rich pork stock from pork trotters and neck bones.

 

Trotters

Trotters and neck bone, to be made into stock.

 

I shared this pic on my personal facebook page and the general consensus there was “gross”.  Although trotters don’t have the same panache as a standing rib roast, they do have a certain je ne sais quoi (and I wouldn’t call them gross).

 

A number of years ago my parents were visiting Paris. At a restaurant, they were offered a menu in French and English. My father’s grammar school French led him to believe that an item on the menu was “foot of pork”, but the English menu said “leg of pork”. When he inquired, the waiter assured him that it was leg of pork (I think you see where this if going…). When a trotter was brought to the table, my father was less than amused.  It is worth noting that my parents are from England, bringing up theories of potential remnants of French-anglo animosity!

 

As I write this, the trotters have been simmering for almost 24hrs and have made three lovely batches of stock. I have some omnivorous scrap-disposal units that are looking forward to the remnants!

 

I used some of the stock to make a hearty soup for lunch today, which I paired with a luxurious beef marrowbone.

 

Marrowbone- I describe it to skeptics as being similar to a savory crème brulee.

Marrowbone- I describe it to skeptics as being similar to a savory crème brulee.

 

I’m one of the few med students on my current rotation who consistently brings lunch. In preparation for this week, and in keeping with the offal theme, I decided to cook up a cow tongue.  After it has simmered for a number of hours I’ll shred it and sauté it with an onion and some spices, eventually portioning it out with some mashed sweet potato.

 

Tongue

Yes- it’s a tongue.

The final offal of the day is a meaty shinbone that I will stew up with a beef kidney, making the old British standby Steak and Kidney (minus the pudding). Kidneys were one of the last odd bits to make their way into my diet. As a child I would hear of this traditional British meal and cringe- funny how things can change (and how long it can take to get over childhood aversions!).

 

For those of us used to human anatomy, beef kidneys sure look WEIRD! (It’s important to trim a kidney well, you don’t want to be eating the calyx!)

For those of us used to human anatomy, beef kidneys sure look WEIRD! (It’s important to trim a kidney well, you don’t want to be eating the calyx!)

 

I realize offal isn’t for everyone, but I hope this might inspire someone to give offal a chance. There are other great things to do with odd bits (imagine a post on offal that doesn’t talk about liver!), and with the help of the internet you can get all kinds of tips and recipes (or you can buy a book).  Even if offal isn’t for you, I hope you can recognize that nose-to-tail eating is a responsible decision when thinking about the ethics of eating meat (even if you do find it a little gross).

 

(Here’s guessing that a number of my friends won’t be looking for dinner invites anytime soon!)

Read Full Post »

Sandy has come and gone (at least in my part of the country- last I heard she was still making her presence felt somewhere in the middle of the country), but for me (and many fellow New Jerseyans) power has gone and not yet come back.  I weathered the storm in my apartment near school, and stayed there for the following day. When word came that my school would be closed for the entire week (the associated hospitals have remained open throughout), I decided to pack up my freezer and head back to my parents’ place (also without power) where there was storm damage that needed to be handled.

All things considered, my family and I were very fortunate with this storm. We are not on the coast and as such were spared the coastal flooding that has damaged so much of our Jersey Shore. We faired much worse with Irene last year, where flooding led to serious damage at our house and at our farm.  While Irene brought us water, Sandy brought us wind.  The majority of the damage after this storm (at least in our area) is due to downed trees or direct wind.

Of course, with downed trees come downed power wires.  As I write this, we approach 100 hours without power*.  At my apartment, while I lacked power, I had water (and while it lasted, the bit of hot water that remained in the tank). My parents’ old farmhouse is on a well, and as such lacks running water when the power goes out.  Luckily there is a stream that can be accessed for water to flush the toilets and we stockpile water in tanks for occasions such as this. We have lots of firewood stashed (and a good old wood-burning stove), so while the temperatures continue to drop we are able to keep ourselves warm the old fashioned way.  The biggest concern with extended power cuts (for us at least) is the risk of our 2 big freezers defrosting. With hundreds of pounds of beef, lamb, pork, and fish (not to mention veggies and berries), an extended outage gets a bit concerning.  Fortunately we have very generous neighbors who have a generator, and after a couple days without power they bring their generator over so we can plug in and recharge our freezers for a bit (as I write this, we’re on round 2 of recharging- so far so good).

At times such as this there are a number of things for which I’m very grateful .

1-    Health. If you aren’t physically well and physically able this manner of glorified camping could turn into hell.

2-    A gas stove. Seriously. The power may go out, but at least I can still cook. What do people with electric stoves do?

3-    Firewood. And after this storm we’ll be set with firewood for many more years to come

4-    Friends with generators (who not only recharge out freezers, but also offer warm showers… saints!)

5- Merino clothing. Cozy and  stink free… need I say more?

With a limited water supply and a desire to keep dirty dishes to a minimum, I keep my cooking simple. Dinners have been big one-pot numbers (I cooked up a good beef shin bone 2 nights ago and I have lamb shanks on the go at the moment), and breakfasts have been soft-boiled eggs.

“Eggs and soldiers” (soft-boiled eggs served with slivers of toast for dipping) was a regular breakfast when I was a child.  While I haven’t had toast in years, soft-boiled eggs remain a regular part of my diet.  They’re quick, they’re easy, they require no preparation or clean up, and despite this I’m not sure I’ve ever met another American that eats them (my parents are English).  Soft-boiled eggs seem to be quite popular in Europe.  Not only are they part of English culinary history (Go to work on an egg), but I’ve seen them at a number of breakfast buffets while traveling in Germany.

I have no intention of writing a food blog. There are much more capable chefs (with much fancier cameras) who cook and write about delicious and nutritious healthful food (here’s a good example), but I’ll take this opportunity to introduce this tasty treat to my readers (and if I’m completely wrong and Americans are eating soft-boiled eggs like mad, please let me know!).

If you can boil water, you can boil an egg. The difficulty with making soft-boil eggs is getting the timing right.  I’ve sometimes heard soft-boiled eggs referred to as “4-minute” eggs, as 4 minutes is about as long as it takes to cook.  Some variables interfere, such as altitude, size of the egg and freshness of the egg (there’s nothing worse than overcooking a beautiful fresh egg still warm from the chicken!), but 4 minutes is a good estimate.

I’ll admit I almost never time my eggs. I invested in one of these gadgets a few years ago, and can’t recommend them highly enough. If you’re lazy like me and sometimes cook tons of eggs at a time, this little device can tell you when they’ll all be done better than any timer.  Worth every penny (I get no kickbacks, I assure you)!

Once your egg is cooked you can stick it in cold water to stop it from cooking too much or just eat it right away. Soft-boiled eggs are best enjoyed warm and are most easily eaten using an eggcup.  Here’s my favorite:

This was the eggcup my Nan would give me as a child when I visited her in England. I reminisced about it and she kindly gave it to me!

The next step is cracking the egg. This too, is easily done!

Once whacked, you can get to work and open up the egg. If all went according to plan, you’ll have a perfect soft yolk!

Mmmm…. Brains

I like mine with a bit of salt (and sometimes some pepper).

I’d like to thank my hens for eating such a nutritious diet and for having such lovely yolks!

It seems as though Brits are pretty keen on soft-boiled eggs (or at least they have been in the past). Maybe it’s because soft-boiled eggs are delicious, or maybe it’s because eggcups are kind of fun. There are lots of options, from cute little pants sets to fine silver.

An antique silver eggcup set- also from my Nan (I can’t believe anyone ever used these!)

Soft-boiled eggs are not only quick to cook with minimal cleanup (usually just a spoon) but they’re also excellent emergency food.  They’re very nutritious, and they can be cooked in water that wouldn’t otherwise be potable (love that shell!). I remember my good friend Jamie Scott  making that point when he wrote about his experience with the earthquakes of Christchurch.

In college I toured Iceland, including a visit to the geysers. I remember hearing that you could cook a soft-boiled egg in the sulfurous hot springs if you were so inclined (talk about Waste not, want not!), and I tracked down a video of some guys doing just that.  The kitchen method might be easier- no hot spring required!

(As the pictures might suggest, I am going a but stir-crazy, though I have to admit that life without power is not without its charms. I’ve read a big book of EKG interpretation cover-to-cover, dismembered a fallen old maple, fixed a chicken house, and taken the dog for a number of walks over the last few days. I’m also rather enjoying the darkness-imposed early bedtimes (now that it no longer sounds like the wind will rip the roof off from over me!)  More science to come- I do plan to get back to liver and lipids shortly!)

 

*This post is up courtesy of the photons and electrons of a local coffee spot… Thanks Riverside Coffee!

Read Full Post »